Category: Cape York May 2017

Friday 19 May 2017

Today was the start of the adventure proper. Up and away at about 7:00am

We had planned to head back to the OTT via Frenchman’s Track, however this was closed, although we were told that someone did try and get through and needed help and assistance from others with winching.

So rather then head north and then north west, we headed back west the way we had come in. Back to Bamaga Development Road, then north towards the OTT.

At Bramwell Junction, we once again fueled up. This is where the non maintained section of the OTT starts. In fact it is only about 50 metres north of the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse

We only made it a few KMs to Palm Creek, this has changed quite considerably since we were last here. The banks were very steep and heavily eroded with a long 30 metres of mud after the eroded banks before getting to the creek itself. There was no one there who had attempted the crossing from either direction that we could talk to, to get an idea of the difficulties that we were likely to come across.

After assessing the situation, we decided to go around Palm Creek via the Bamaga Bypass Road, and come back into the OTT via the Southern Gunshot Bypass, and then headed south to Dulcie Creek, crossing Bertie Creek, Dulhunty Creek, North Alice Creek and Dulcie Creek. The next one south of Dulcie was Palm, so no point in going any further south.

We had noticed some good camping spots at North Alice so headed back there to set up our campsite for the night.

At last some action, although a little disappointing not to have crossed Palm Creek

Thursday 18 May 2017

Once again this was not going to be a big driving day, especially as we had talked to some guys who had come from that direction the previous day and stayed overnight at the same campsite.

They told us that the drive took them 3 hours, this was also overly pessimistic, as the drive took us just over 2 hours. There were a few creek crossings but nothing overly difficult at all.

Chili Beach and surrounding areas have an interesting WW II history.

During World War II, a large American bomber base was set up at Gordon’s Airstrip (aka Lockhart River Airport) with three airstrips operating. The US bombers would fly to PNG and be met by their fighter escorts based at Bamaga and Horn Island further north. Thousands of US and Australian troops did their jungle training, before being shipped to southeast Asia. Chilli Beach was the supply port during WW II with a large jetty which has since been removed,although you can still see parts of the piers and rail lines lying about.

A pretty area without anything doing as it was not yet the full on dry season, in fact the local café was still closed and was not scheduled to open until June.

On our way to the Chili Beach camping area, there was a sign from a local enterprising bloke, touting that he had fish, prawns and block ice. Ice was $10 per block made using tank water he claimed. The prawns were $20 per kilo, and the fish (Spanish Mackerel) was $30 per kilo. We bought all three

The camping site was in a great spot just about 50 metres over a sand rise to the beach. Another very warm day at about 30 degrees plus high humidity. Very warm at the campsite, but when we walked over to the beach, the breeze was very comfortable.

That night however the wind picked up, which is usual in these parts and this made it easier to sleep as there was air getting through the tents.

Chili Beach looking back to the campground

As is required for all camping areas in Queensland National Parks, a permit is required to camp. For the Chili Beach Camping Area we booked and paid online

Wednesday 17 May 2017

Another lazy get away morning, 8:00am.

All maps and advice we had indicated that it was a 6 hour drive from the Portlands Road turn off to Chili Beach.

Once again, more bitumen sections on the Bamaga Development Road, this is getting to be boring, really looking forward to getting onto the OTT (Old Telegraph Track) which is one of the reasons we are heading to the Tip once again, for the adventure of conquering the OTT.

We arrived at the Portlands Road turn off knowing that it would be about the 6 hours to Chili Beach, we had booked and planned on “checking into” Chili Beach Camping Ground the following day, we thought that we would be free camping somewhere along Portlands Roads Rd. At the turn off to Portlands Roads Rd, there was a sign indicating a camping ground not too far further on. Why Portland Roads ? It was named by Lt James Cook in 1770 after the Duke of Portland, the latter part of its name is an old maritime term ‘roadstead’ or ‘roads’  a place where boats could safely shelter.

It was an easy decision to decide to pull into the nearby Chungalungan Camping Ground for the night. This was an open area on aboriginal lands, and so payment was made when the dude came around on his quad bike. The toilet facilities were quite good which was a surprise. The showers (two) were open air, however were a good size and had corrugated iron sheeting. To heat the water required lighting a fire under a 44 Gallon Drum, which had the water pipe coiled through the tank which was half full of water that was heated, and in turn heated the water in the pipes. Was it hot, well needed to balance the hot with the cold water. The water was drawn from the local creek.

Light to heavy showers as we were setting up the campsite, more of  a nuisance than anything else.

The campground had several fire pits, so we just had to have a fire to sit around after dinner.

A few passing showers was the order of the night, a light shower, just enough to move out of the rain, then stairs so back around the fire, then more showers. Repeat several times.

Tuesday 16 May 2017

No early start today, 8:00am away, our first stop will be the Lion’s Den Hotel at Helensvale, we had originally planned to have an overnight here after Cape Trib and may have done so if we had done the CREB track.

The dirt road from Cape Trib to Helensvale was very uneventful, with more bitumen, and one of the [previously] better water crossings with a new raised concrete section. This a spot where we stopped on the last trip and watched a few people crossing including one van of locals who hit the water at speed and survived.

We arrived at the Lion’s Den about 11ish, so not too early for a beer – is it ever?. Unfortunately, the new owners who had only been there for a few weeks did not have draught beer on tap only bottles. They did have a reasonable Pizza menu so any early lunch and then on our way after a few of us bought souvenirs (shirts & stubby holders).

View from Cooktown Lookout

Next port of call was Cooktown, the days are starting to get warmer now, and it was a brilliant blue sky day in Cooktown.

Our plan was to go out to Cape Melville, and once again we had conflicting information about whether it was open or not, some of the locals insisting that we could get through although the roads were listed as “closed”. There are heavy fines if you are found in a National Park that is listed as closed. Checking with the National Parks assistance line we were once again disappointed to find out that the National Park was closed and we were not allowed to head out to Cape Melville. From being behind in our schedule we were now going to be ahead of schedule.

We went up to the Cooktown lookout which is a very steep climb (drive), and as I remember from last time very windy. Captain Cook came to this vantage point as well to get an overview of how he could sail out of the area, for him, with great difficulty as the prevailing winds did not provide any assistance whatsoever.

Almost went past a roadside seller of fresh seafood and prawns, needless to say, we bought a couple of kilos of prawns.

Nothing else to see here in Cooktown, so we fueled up for the next part of the journey and hit the road.

I was amazed to find that there was heaps more bitumen as we headed up towards Hann River, which has a camping area adjacent to the Servo and Roadhouse. This was another easy run, arriving at about 4:00pm. Pitched our tents and settled down for a few beverages and a relax.

Discussed where we would head the next day, north east towards Chili Beach was one of the few places that we could get to as the roads were open.

Win’s birthday today, she was too busy having a good time as I missed her whenever I tried to call when we were in mobile range which was patchy at best, c’est la vie

Monday 15 May 2017

No need to rush, as we have now got ourselves back on schedule where we wanted to be.

Our plan this morning is to take on the notorious CREB Track, which goes from the village of Daintree through the Daintree Rainforest and comes out at Bloomfield. We will then head south for a few KMs and camp at Cape Trib Camping Ground

A relative sedate 55 KM drive to Daintree from Port Douglas on bitumen. We check at a tourist info place and they confirm that the CREB track is open – Woohoo. We have heard that this is a very notorious track, and will take several hours to travel the [relatively] short distance. Our first challenge of the trip.

CREB Track Closed

Disappointment plus as we are faced with a sign that states that the CREB is closed. We call the local number to verify if in fact it is closed or if the sign has just not been taken down, alas it is closed. This is due to the very big and late wet season, and they have simply not been able to get manpower and vehicles in to do some rudimentary repairs. If we were to attempt the track, there are huge fines if you get caught, plus if you get stuck and need assistance to get out you pay the actual cost plus huge fines which may include confiscation of the vehicle/s.

So we head back to the Ferry, and cross the Daintree River and head north via the Cape Tribulation Rd. We had planned on staying at Cape Trib Camping, so we head there, arriving mid afternoon. Time to relax.

Sunday 14 May 2017

Once again an early start, to get us into Port Douglas by this evening. Check the vehicles and add fuel

We were on the road by 5:00am again.

Our journey today took us through Clermont, Charters Towers, Lyndt Corner (Oasis Roadhouse for more fuel), Atherton, Mareeba, Mount Mona and down into Port Douglas via the Gregory Highway. Pretty much an uneventful day.

Once again very little traffic although this started to increase once we got to Mount Mona and all the way to Port Douglas.

Port Douglas Marina

Once again we covered some 1100 KMs arriving in daylight, after checking in a stroll to the Marina, and quick beverage then off to the pub for a meal and a few more drinks

Saturday 13 May 2017

Another very early start, we want to make up some ground after yesterday’s problems

Daily ritual, check all levels and top up the fuel

Fueled and Coffee’ed up, then we were on the road by 5:00am. We would have possibly have got away earlier if Bruce had not misplaced his spare phone and had to search everywhere, we tore that room apart without success as well as his clothes bag, without success. Another bad day coming up? Possibly so

We had an excellent run once we were on the road with very light traffic. Bruce however was still concerned over his loss of his spare phone, and was coming up with ideas as to where it may have been. Was it on the sop of the wardrobe? Unlikely, but he wanted the owners to check. Did it fall out of his bag when he placed it beside the vehicle while we were loading up in the dark? This seemed more plausible, and of course he wanted to make contact with the motel owners as quickly as he could, because as soon as there was light in the car park, anyone could see it and pick it up. Unfortunately, the owners of the motel did not have any voice mail, and did not pick up the phone until close to noon. They checked and there was no sign of a phone in the carpark nor was there any sign of the phone in the room, they even checked other rooms that we had occupied.

Today we covered some 1200KMs, traveling through Walgett, Roma, Injune (this is where we wanted to be last night) and now we are well into Queensland. Tonight we called it quits in Emerald.

Although Duane had mentioned to Bruce that he should take everything out of his bag to be sure that the spare phone was not there, Bruce did have a good look earlier in the day and was convinced that it was not there, however in the end he did decide to follow Duane’s advice and empty everything out. Lo and behold, one phone hiding under everything at the bottom of the bag, it was the last item in the bag.

Friday 12 May 2017

Do we have enough provisions

We met up at the Caltex Servo in Gold Creek, sorted some last minute provisions into the correct vehicles and left Canberra on time as planned at 4:00am. Our plan is to get to Injune in Queensland that evening.

Making good time through the early fog and the occasional ‘roo sighting.

At about 6:20am 45 KM’s from Molong (we were right at the 45 KM signpost) BANG – a big explosion in Ian’s Fourby which was ahead of us. I initially thought that it was some dirt that had been thrown up, but not so it was steam! The radiator had literally exploded, with both the bottom and top radiator tanks tearing themselves away from the radiator core and hoses.

What to do – call the NRMA, as usual an hour to get to us, and he restated the obvious, but also threw in the fact that we might have damaged the head. The NRMA guy call A1 towing who will come from Orange and that is where we want to be towed and of course this will be an hour. Frantic phone calls as we try to find a replacement radiator. Also several calls to mechanic friends to get their opinion on whether there was further [engine] damage, the overall opinion was that there would not be.

Radiator Explosion Result

The Flat Top Tow Truck did not arrive until 10:00 much to our displeasure. After getting to the radiator dealer who incidentally is not allowed to fit radiators, it turns out that the radiator is not suitable, short Land Cruiser radiator versus a long radiator which is what they have. Another dealer has a knock off radiator which is not really suitable. With further googling to see who else there is town we find the local Natrad dealer who has a brand new short radiator, the last one in town. So now led by Steve the new radiator is fitted, checked out, verified that there was no other damage and off we head.

We now head off to Dubbo which is some 400 odd KMs from Canberra, nowhere near our planned destination for the first night. We have lost about 6 hours travel time today.

Let’s hope the bad luck is now out of the way as far as vehicles are concerned.

Usually the posts are about Win and my travels, not this time. This trip is about six of us (Bruce, Ian, Steve, Chris, Duane & myself) and our adventures to Cape York in May of this year. Four of us have been there before and are looking to visiting some of the places that we hit last time as well as visiting some new areas. On our way back we will head to Weipa for a spot of fishing. Fill those Fridges with seafood and bring loads back, well that is what I am hoping.

The first few days will see us heading northwards from Canberra as fast as we can, as the real adventure doesn’t start until we are past the Daintree and Cooktown area. The distance to Cooktown is about 2,800 KMs

Over the last few months, and especially in the last few weeks the rest of the crew who are based in Canberra have been busy making sure that the vehicles are fully prep’ed.

Checklists have been created, items added and checked off

Come Friday 12 May we will be heading north in convoy